Published on 2020-07-2

Stepping into Kakikopi on the backside of Xiaoyun Lu's Food Street, Beijing's appetite for something new in a time largely marked by closures is immediately apparent. Drawing from the Southeast Asian dining tradition of kopitiam – crammed coffee shops where multiple outlets hustle for diners – full tables and a bustling atmosphere suits the concept well.

Here, kopitiam has been given a contemporary spin with a massive and beautifully colored centerpiece mural asking diners, "will you be my kakikopi (coffee buddy)?" and floor-to-ceiling windows that give the space a bright and open feel. And while woks still fire up in the back and a playlist of Chinese language classics plays over the speakers, diners are spared pushing through hungry hordes by ordering via QR codes directly at their table.

The restaurant and menu are overseen by Jasmine Kho of Mulu fame. Kho's ambitious attempts to create a home for pan-Asian dining in WF Central were sadly shuttered earlier this year, but the time and money saved by getting a jump on the pandemic, as well as the ongoing weekend brunch and successful delivery scheme at the original Mulu hutong location, have allowed her to hone her family recipes for the smaller plates now found at Kakikopi.

Just like Mulu WF Central, the emphasis here is on affordable pan-Southeast Asian cuisine and the menu is brimming with the classics, from Filipino beef adobo with garlic vinegar rice (RMB 88) to Malaysian Sarawak laksa (RMB 48) and chicken curry (RMB 48), and Singaporean bakcho mee pok (RMB 38) to the ubiquitous Hainan chicken rice (RMB 78).

The beef rendang (RMB 68), simmered for eight hours with an array of 36 different spices, is decadent and rich – a signature characteristic of many of the dishes here – while the nasi lemak special with sambal and curry chicken (RMB 39), served with the requisite anchovies, peanuts, and split boiled egg, is as authentic a rendition as you'll find anywhere in Malaysia.

If you're not looking to completely pig out, there's also a range of Nyonya kueh (Perakanan sweets and cakes) to enjoy over joltingly strong bottles of iced coffee (RMB 23) or teh c peng (three-layer tea, RMB 23).

In all, it feels like Kho has hit her stride with Kakikopi, offering no-fuss Southeast Asian street food in an environment that is both comfortable and welcoming, the latter aided by receptive staff that know what they're talking about. The result is a menu that deserves repeat visits and the first addition to Xiaoyun Lu that's worth getting excited about in many years. For that reason, don't expect the crowds to abate throughout the summer.

Kakikopi

Daily, 11am-3pm; 5.30-10pm (Nyonya kueh available 11am-10pm). 15-40, 15 Xiaoyun Lu (backside of the Food Street), Chaoyang District (6410 9588)

朝阳区霄云路15号15-4

Form：Tom Arnstein theBeijinger

Photos: Tom Arnstein

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